Alpine Meadow Socks

Abbreviations

Finishing

Weave in all ends securely on the WS using a tapestry needle. Wet block both socks by soaking in cool water for 20 minutes, gently pressing out excess water in a towel, and laying flat or placing on sock blockers to dry. This opens up the esc fabric and helps the ribbing relax to its final dimensions. Make second sock the same way.

Notes

SIZING: This pattern is written for a foot circumference of approximately 7.5 in (unstretched), which fits a 8–8.5 in foot with negative ease typical of crochet socks. For a smaller foot (7–7.5 in circumference), work through Rnd 4 of the Toe (40 sts) and adjust all stitch counts accordingly. For a larger foot (9 in circumference), continue Toe increases through a Rnd 6 (56 sts). FOOT LENGTH: Rnds 6–34 are written as a guide; continue working even rnds until the foot is approximately 2 in shorter than your desired total foot length before transitioning to the ankle. Each round adds approximately 0.15 in of length. WASTE YARN HEEL: Use a smooth, slippery waste yarn (cotton or nylon) in a contrasting color so it is easy to remove. Work over exactly 24 sts — this is the sole half of the sock. When removing waste yarn, go slowly and place live loops onto a stitch holder or directly onto your hook before they unravel. RIBBING: The fpdc/bpdc ribbing creates a very stretchy fabric. Do not crochet tightly during this section — go up a hook size if your ribbing feels stiff. TURNING CHAINS: The ch 2 at the start of each ribbing round does NOT count as a stitch. Always work the first fpdc into the first actual fpdc post of the previous round. GAUGE: Check your gauge before starting. One stitch at this gauge equals approximately 1/6 inch, so gauge accuracy directly affects the fit of the sock.