Shared crochet pattern

Pocket Octopus

A palm-sized amigurumi octopus with a round stuffed body and eight chained tentacle legs. Worked in continuous rounds from a magic ring with a tight single crochet fabric so stuffing doesn't peek through.

Finished / weight

Approximately 3 in wide × 2.5 in tall (body only), tentacles 3–4 in long

Gauge

16 sc × 18 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet worked tightly in the round with E-4 (3.5 mm) hook

Yarn

Worsted weight, 50–80 yards total; acrylic or cotton recommended for washability and stitch definition

Needles / hooks

E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook

Notions

Stitch marker, tapestry needle, polyfill stuffing, two 9 mm or 12 mm safety eyes, scissors

Abbreviations

ch = chainsc = single crochetinc = 2 sc in same stitch (increase)invdec = invisible decrease: insert hook through front loops only of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hooksl st = slip stitchMR = magic ringpm = place markersm = slip markerBLO = back loop onlyFO = fasten offRS = right side (outside of fabric facing you)rnd = roundst = stitchsts = stitchesrep = repeat

Body

Rnd 1MR, work 6 sc into ring, pull ring closed, pm to mark last st of rnd, do not join. (6 sts)6 sts
Rnd 2Inc in each st around, sm. (12 sts)12 sts
Rnd 3*Sc 1, inc; rep from * around, sm. (18 sts)18 sts
Rnd 4*Sc 2, inc; rep from * around, sm. (24 sts)24 sts
Rnd 5*Sc 3, inc; rep from * around, sm. (30 sts)30 sts
Rnds 6–10Sc in each st around, sm. (30 sts)(5 rows)
Eye PlacementBefore continuing, attach safety eyes between Rnds 7 and 8, spaced approximately 6–7 sts apart on the RS of the body. Secure backings firmly.
Rnd 11*Sc 3, invdec; rep from * around, sm. (24 sts)24 sts
Rnd 12*Sc 2, invdec; rep from * around, sm. (18 sts)18 sts
StuffingFirmly stuff body with polyfill now, before opening becomes too small. Continue to next round.
Rnd 13*Sc 1, invdec; rep from * around, sm. (12 sts)12 sts
Rnd 14Invdec 6 times around, sm. (6 sts)6 sts
ClosureCut yarn leaving a 10 in tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle, weave through front loops of remaining 6 sts, pull tight to close opening, and secure with a knot. Weave in end inside body.

Tentacles (Make 8)

Tentacle SetupJoin yarn with a sl st to any stitch around the bottom opening of the body (Rnd 1 ring area or the last closed rnd edge — attach at the gathered bottom edge). Ch 25. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (24 sc). Sl st into base attachment point to anchor. FO, leave a 6 in tail to weave in.24 sts
Tentacle 2Join yarn at bottom edge approximately 2–3 sts from first tentacle attachment. Ch 25. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (24 sc). Sl st to anchor. FO.24 sts
Tentacle 3 – Tentacle 8Join yarn at bottom edge approximately 2–3 sts from previous tentacle attachment. Ch 25. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (24 sc). Sl st to anchor. FO.(6 rows)24 sts

Finishing

Weave in all ends from tentacle attachments securely using a tapestry needle, drawing tails into the body interior where possible. If desired, use black embroidery floss or a small amount of yarn to embroider a small smile between the eyes using a straight stitch. Lightly steam block tentacles to straighten if they curl excessively. No further seaming required.

Notes

Use a hook one to two sizes smaller than the ball band recommends (E-4 / 3.5 mm for worsted) so stitches are tight and stuffing does not show through. Always insert safety eyes before closing the body — once the opening is smaller than a finger width it becomes very difficult. Move the stitch marker at the end of every round to avoid losing your place; a locking stitch marker or a small piece of scrap yarn works well. For a curlier tentacle effect, chain 30 and sc back along it — the extra slack makes the tentacle spiral naturally. To make the octopus larger, add one more increase round before the even rounds section (Rnds 6–10) and add 6 sts per tentacle chain accordingly. Safety eyes are not appropriate for toys given to children under 3; embroider eyes with felt or yarn instead.

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